Wahid waistcoat - no overlap for buttons/buttonholes

deadshort44 · April 25, 2025, 11:29am

I’m a newbie to sewing and FreeSewing 3 days ago. My first attempt is the Wahid. When I stitched it into a garment and tried it on I found that there was no overlap of the edges so that the buttons/buttonholes could reach each other. Did this also happen for anyone else?

I then studied the measurements with the Paperless view and found that the dimensions across the different garment panels all added up to my waist/chest circumference. I expected the design would add the overlap amount - since I couldn’t see any option to set the overlap.

Thoughts - anyone?

Benjamin_F · April 25, 2025, 12:49pm

I generated a test Wahid using 80 cm chest, waist, and hips circumference values. (Basically a cylinder, just for testing purposes.). The width dimensions of the generated Wahid added up to 83 cm across the bottom, so 3 cm of overlap. So, there should have been some overlap in your pattern to accommondate the buttons/buttonholes.

But, you can use the design options to change Wahid’s Chest Ease, Waist Ease, and Hips Ease values, if the pattern needs adjusting.

jonathan_haas · April 25, 2025, 12:59pm

Wahid has a hardcoded front overlap of 1% of the chest measurement plus you have the various ease values, that should also get added onto the measurements (e.g. 2% chest ease by default).

That said, I’ve created a Wahid at default settings and it was pretty tight.

deadshort44 · April 26, 2025, 1:28am

Thx for your interest Benjamin_F and jonathan_hass. Here is the measurement set for me:

deadshort44 · April 26, 2025, 1:29am

Note that waist and hips are 119cm.

Here are the measurements in the pattern that I am adding:

Here is the url for the same pattern:

Note that all Fit options are at default.

(15.81 + 14.66 + 29.33) x2 = 119.6cm. I only see 6mm of overlap

I haven’t changed the default ease values because I wasn’t sure how the percentages worked - now I think that I do. The 8% hip ease and the 8% default waist ease should convert 119cm to 128.5cm. And yet 119.6cm seems to be the result on the pattern.

Any thoughts?

deadshort44 · April 26, 2025, 1:31am

I have to laugh - there was a time long-long-ago when my chest-waist-hips were all the same circumference.

Benjamin_F · April 26, 2025, 2:11am

Thanks for providing the measurements and pattern. I now think there is a problem with Wahid where the chest measurement can affect the garment width to be smaller than waist/hips.

I am able to reproduce the issue when generating Wahid with the Elanor measurement set, changing waist and hips to 80 cm, and changing chest to 75 cm. The width across the bottom of the pattern is only 78 cm.

I’ll try to do some more experimenting with different combinations of chest/waist/hips measurements to figure out how they influence the final width.

Edit: added:

It looks like the chest measurement affects Wahid’s width the most:

83.83cm: (80cm, 80cm, 80cm chest,waist,hips)

78.59cm: (75cm, 80cm, 80cm chest,waist,hips)
83.83cm: (80cm, 75cm, 80cm chest,waist,hips)
83.43cm: (80cm, 80cm, 75cm chest,waist,hips)

88.87cm: (85cm, 80cm, 80cm chest,waist,hips)
83.83cm: (80cm, 85cm, 80cm chest,waist,hips)
83.83cm: (80cm, 80cm, 85cm chest,waist,hips)

78.59cm: (75cm, 80cm, 85cm chest,waist,hips)
78.59cm: (75cm, 85cm, 80cm chest,waist,hips)
83.83cm: (80cm, 75cm, 85cm chest,waist,hips)
83.43cm: (80cm, 85cm, 75cm chest,waist,hips)
88.87cm: (85cm, 75cm, 80cm chest,waist,hips)
85.27cm: (85cm, 80cm, 75cm chest,waist,hips)

deadshort44 · April 26, 2025, 6:11am

I believe that my chest circumference off 115 is the cause. So, does the chest value get used elsewhere in the Wahid? I haven’t noticed

bibigab · April 26, 2025, 12:39pm

Am also playing with Wahid design. My thoughts as a newbie and pls don’t laugh.
You rarely wear a waistcoat on naked skin. Usually you wear it above a shirt and / or underwear (especially true in the Netherlands… less in the equator). It then requires an identical adjustment to the chest, waist & hip measurements to deal with the above (correct?). Then of course you may want some specific adjustment for some of these measures. Current design requires you to play with all of the chest, waist & hip ease adjustments (correct?)

Benjamin_F · April 26, 2025, 7:43pm

How Wahid currently works:

Wahid inherits its underlying block from Brian:
- Brian asks for only the chest circumference measurement.
- Brian does not ask for or use waist or hips circumference measurements.
- Brian sets the width of the garment according to the chest circumference.
  - Brian creates a point at the armhole, and the width is basically just the chest circumference.
  - Brian creates a point at the outer waist, but the width is still basically just the chest circumference.
  - Brian creates a point at the outer hips, but the width is still basically just the chest circumference.
Wahid inherits those points from Brian.
Wahid does ask for the waist and hips circumference measurements.
Before adjustments, Wahid continues to use Brian’s chest, waist, and hips widths (which are basically the chest circumference).
Wahid has code to set the dart dimensions to reduce the waist and hips, if those measurements are less than chest.
Wahid has code to reduce the width of the garment at the waist if the measurement is less than the chest.
Wahid has code to reduce the width of the garment at the hips if the measurement is less than the chest.
Wahid does not have code to increase the waist and hips based on measurements.
If the waist and hips are larger than the chest, Wahid continues to use Brian’s chest, waist, and hips widths (still based on chest circumference).

I’m experimenting with allowing “negative reductions” for the side seam adjustments to increase the width. (For the dart, reductions remain either positive or capped at zero.)

--- a/designs/wahid/src/shared.mjs
+++ b/designs/wahid/src/shared.mjs
@@ -8,14 +8,19 @@ export const constructMainDart = (part) => {
 
   reduce.waist = chest - waist
   reduce.hips = chest - hips
+  reduce.waist_seam = reduce.waist
+  reduce.hips_seam = reduce.hips
   if (reduce.hips < 0) reduce.hips = 0
   if (reduce.waist < 0) reduce.waist = 0
 
-  let wr12 = reduce.waist / 12
-  let hr12 = reduce.hips / 12
+  let wr12 = reduce.waist_seam / 12
+  let hr12 = reduce.hips_seam / 12
   store.set('wr12', wr12)
   store.set('hr12', hr12)
 
+  wr12 = reduce.waist / 12
+  hr12 = reduce.hips / 12
+
   points.dartWaistCenter = new Point(points.armhole.x / 2, points.waist.y)
   points.dartWaistRight = points.dartWaistCenter.shift(0, wr12)
   points.dartWaistLeft = points.dartWaistCenter.shift(180, wr12)

deadshort44 · April 27, 2025, 12:37am

Thx B_F. I had concluded that I just had to accept a non-fitting chest portion of the Wahid by adding chest ease or changing the actual chest circumference value to achieve the overlap I require. Yet when I tried these changes I think I saw that the upper part of the dsign didn’t change significantly, and so that’s a work-around I suppose.

deadshort44 · April 27, 2025, 1:03am

It sort of sounds like Wahid will work for George Clooney or Nicole Kidman, but not for Winston Churchill or Dawn French. I am more of a Churchill type

Benjamin_F · April 27, 2025, 9:31pm

Below are the equivalent bottom widths with side seam “negative reduction” allowed. The numbers are better, though there are still some “garment narrower than measurements” situations.

85.45cm: (80cm, 80cm, 80cm chest,waist,hips)

81.94cm: (75cm, 80cm, 80cm chest,waist,hips)
85.45cm: (80cm, 75cm, 80cm chest,waist,hips)
83.43cm: (80cm, 80cm, 75cm chest,waist,hips)

88.87cm: (85cm, 80cm, 80cm chest,waist,hips)
85.45cm: (80cm, 85cm, 80cm chest,waist,hips)
87.28cm: (80cm, 80cm, 85cm chest,waist,hips)

83.77cm: (75cm, 80cm, 85cm chest,waist,hips)
81.94cm: (75cm, 85cm, 80cm chest,waist,hips)
87.28cm: (80cm, 75cm, 85cm chest,waist,hips)
83.43cm: (80cm, 85cm, 75cm chest,waist,hips)
85.27cm: (85cm, 80cm, 75cm chest,waist,hips)
88.87cm: (85cm, 75cm, 80cm chest,waist,hips)

I think I need to check the widths at the chestline and waistline to get a more accurate picture of what is happening. A single width at the bottom of the garment doesn’t tell what the fit is like at other points.

It might also be worth investigating changing Wahid to use the actual waist and hips measurements to create the side seam points instead of using and making adjustments to Brian’s chest-based measurements.

Benjamin_F · April 28, 2025, 7:05pm

Eases at chest (armhole bottom), waist, and hips.

Current Wahid ease:

Ease: 2.12cm, 1.6cm, 3.85cm: (80, 80, 80 chest,waist,hips 2%, 8%, 8%)

Ease: 1.92cm, -3.5cm, -1.39cm: (75, 80, 80 chest,waist,hips 2%, 8%, 8%)
Ease: 2.12cm, 6cm, 3.85cm: (80, 75, 80 chest,waist,hips 2%, 8%, 8%)
Ease: 2.12cm, 1.6cm, 8.25cm: (80, 80, 75 chest,waist,hips 2%, 8%, 8%)

Ease: 2.31cm, 6.4cm, 8.79cm: (85, 80, 80 chest,waist,hips 2%, 8%, 8%)
Ease: 2.12cm, -3.4cm, 3.85cm: (80, 85, 80 chest,waist,hips 2%, 8%, 8%)
Ease: 2.12cm, 1.6cm, -1.15cm: (80, 80, 85 chest,waist,hips 2%, 8%, 8%)

Ease: 1.92cm, -3.5cm, -6.39cm: (75, 80, 85 chest,waist,hips 2%, 8%, 8%)
Ease: 1.92cm, -8.5cm, -1.39cm: (75, 85, 80 chest,waist,hips 2%, 8%, 8%)
Ease: 2.12cm, 6cm, -1.15cm: (80, 75, 85 chest,waist,hips 2%, 8%, 8%)
Ease: 2.12cm, -3.4cm, 8.25cm: (80, 85, 75 chest,waist,hips 2%, 8%, 8%)
Ease: 2.31cm, 6cm, 8.79cm: (85, 75, 80 chest,waist,hips 2%, 8%, 8%)
Ease: 2.31cm, 6.4cm, 8.39cm: (85, 80, 75 chest,waist,hips 2%, 8%, 8%)

Ease with side seam negative reduction changes:

Ease: 2.12cm, 3.2cm, 5.47cm: (80, 80, 80 chest,waist,hips 2%, 8%, 8%)

Ease: 1.92cm, -0.2cm, 1.96cm: (75, 80, 80 chest,waist,hips 2%, 8%, 8%)
Ease: 2.12cm, 6cm, 5.47cm: (80, 75, 80 chest,waist,hips 2%, 8%, 8%)
Ease: 2.12cm, 3.2cm, 8.25cm: (80, 80, 75 chest,waist,hips 2%, 8%, 8%)

Ease: 2.31cm, 6.4cm, 8.79cm: (85, 80, 80 chest,waist,hips 2%, 8%, 8%)
Ease: 2.12cm, 0cm, 5.47cm: (80, 85, 80 chest,waist,hips 2%, 8%, 8%)
Ease: 2.12cm, 3.2cm, 2.3cm: (80, 80, 85 chest,waist,hips 2%, 8%, 8%)

Ease: 1.92cm, -0.2cm, -1.21cm: (75, 80, 85 chest,waist,hips 2%, 8%, 8%)
Ease: 1.92cm, -3.4cm, 1.96cm: (75, 85, 80 chest,waist,hips 2%, 8%, 8%)
Ease: 2.12cm, 6cm, 2.3cm: (80, 75, 85 chest,waist,hips 2%, 8%, 8%)
Ease: 2.12cm, 0cm, 8.25cm: (80, 85, 75 chest,waist,hips 2%, 8%, 8%)
Ease: 2.31cm, 6cm, 8.79cm: (85, 75, 80 chest,waist,hips 2%, 8%, 8%)
Ease: 2.31cm, 6.4cm, 8.39cm: (85, 80, 75 chest,waist,hips 2%, 8%, 8%)

Benjamin_F · April 28, 2025, 8:31pm

Using actual waist and hips measurements, current dart reduction, current side seam reduction:

Ease: 2.12cm, 6.4cm, 8.65cm: (80, 80, 80 chest,waist,hips 2%, 8%, 8%)

Ease: 1.92cm, 6.4cm, 8.51cm: (75, 80, 80 chest,waist,hips 2%, 8%, 8%)
Ease: 2.12cm, 5.4cm, 8.65cm: (80, 75, 80 chest,waist,hips 2%, 8%, 8%)
Ease: 2.12cm, 6.4cm, 7.65cm: (80, 80, 75 chest,waist,hips 2%, 8%, 8%)

Ease: 2.31cm, 6.1cm, 8.49cm: (85, 80, 80 chest,waist,hips 2%, 8%, 8%)
Ease: 2.12cm, 6.8cm, 8.65cm: (80, 85, 80 chest,waist,hips 2%, 8%, 8%)
Ease: 2.12cm, 6.4cm, 9.05cm: (80, 80, 85 chest,waist,hips 2%, 8%, 8%)

Ease: 1.92cm, 6.4cm, 8.91cm: (75, 80, 85 chest,waist,hips 2%, 8%, 8%)
Ease: 1.92cm, 6.8cm, 8.51cm: (75, 85, 80 chest,waist,hips 2%, 8%, 8%)
Ease: 2.12cm, 5.4cm, 9.05cm: (80, 75, 85 chest,waist,hips 2%, 8%, 8%)
Ease: 2.12cm, 6.8cm, 7.65cm: (80, 85, 75 chest,waist,hips 2%, 8%, 8%)
Ease: 2.31cm, 0.3cm, 8.49cm: (85, 75, 80 chest,waist,hips 2%, 8%, 8%)
Ease: 2.31cm, 6.1cm, 2.69cm: (85, 80, 75 chest,waist,hips 2%, 8%, 8%)

Using actual waist and hips measurements, current dart reduction, no side seam reduction:

Ease: 2.12cm, 6.4cm, 8.72cm: (80, 80, 80 chest,waist,hips 2%, 8%, 8%)

Ease: 1.92cm, 6.4cm, 8.66cm: (75, 80, 80 chest,waist,hips 2%, 8%, 8%)
Ease: 2.12cm, 5.6cm, 8.72cm: (80, 75, 80 chest,waist,hips 2%, 8%, 8%)
Ease: 2.12cm, 6.4cm, 7.84cm: (80, 80, 75 chest,waist,hips 2%, 8%, 8%)

Ease: 2.31cm, 6.2cm, 8.58cm: (85, 80, 80 chest,waist,hips 2%, 8%, 8%)
Ease: 2.12cm, 6.8cm, 8.72cm: (80, 85, 80 chest,waist,hips 2%, 8%, 8%)
Ease: 2.12cm, 6.4cm, 9.2cm: (80, 80, 85 chest,waist,hips 2%, 8%, 8%)

Ease: 1.92cm, 6.4cm, 9.15cm: (75, 80, 85 chest,waist,hips 2%, 8%, 8%)
Ease: 1.92cm, 6.8cm, 8.66cm: (75, 85, 80 chest,waist,hips 2%, 8%, 8%)
Ease: 2.12cm, 5.6cm, 9.2cm: (80, 75, 85 chest,waist,hips 2%, 8%, 8%)
Ease: 2.12cm, 6.8cm, 7.84cm: (80, 85, 75 chest,waist,hips 2%, 8%, 8%)
Ease: 2.31cm, 2.2cm, 8.58cm: (85, 75, 80 chest,waist,hips 2%, 8%, 8%)
Ease: 2.31cm, 6.2cm, 4.53cm: (85, 80, 75 chest,waist,hips 2%, 8%, 8%)

Using actual waist and hips measurements, no dart reduction, no side seam reduction:

Ease: 2.12cm, 6.4cm, 8.72cm: (80, 80, 80 chest,waist,hips 2%, 8%, 8%)

Ease: 1.92cm, 6.4cm, 8.66cm: (75, 80, 80 chest,waist,hips 2%, 8%, 8%)
Ease: 2.12cm, 6cm, 8.72cm: (80, 75, 80 chest,waist,hips 2%, 8%, 8%)
Ease: 2.12cm, 6.4cm, 8.24cm: (80, 80, 75 chest,waist,hips 2%, 8%, 8%)

Ease: 2.31cm, 6.4cm, 8.78cm: (85, 80, 80 chest,waist,hips 2%, 8%, 8%)
Ease: 2.12cm, 6.4cm, 9.2cm: (80, 80, 85 chest,waist,hips 2%, 8%, 8%)
Ease: 2.12cm, 6.8cm, 8.72cm: (80, 85, 80 chest,waist,hips 2%, 8%, 8%)

Ease: 1.92cm, 6.4cm, 9.15cm: (75, 80, 85 chest,waist,hips 2%, 8%, 8%)
Ease: 1.92cm, 6.8cm, 8.66cm: (75, 85, 80 chest,waist,hips 2%, 8%, 8%)
Ease: 2.12cm, 6cm, 9.2cm: (80, 75, 85 chest,waist,hips 2%, 8%, 8%)
Ease: 2.12cm, 6.8cm, 8.24cm: (80, 85, 75 chest,waist,hips 2%, 8%, 8%)
Ease: 2.31cm, 6.4cm, 8.31cm: (85, 80, 75 chest,waist,hips 2%, 8%, 8%)
Ease: 2.31cm, 6cm, 8.78cm: (85, 75, 80 chest,waist,hips 2%, 8%, 8%)

I think I like this last version. The eases are more consistent, and the pattern shapes subjectively look better to me.

Edit: Added: (The forum won’t allow me to add more than 3 consecutive posts to this topic, so I need to edit this post and add the new information here.)

All of my previous ease calculation figures included the button overlap. The actual eases are smaller once button overlap is subtracted.

I’ve discovered a problem with Wahid’s chest ease at the armhole. The pattern starts by adding chest ease (2% default) plus the button overlap (1% default). However, it then rotates the armhole point around the dart point (6 degrees default). So, the actual
distance at the chest/armhole decreases, making the ease tighter than the 2% in the settings.