Struggling with Charlie Chino welt pockets

[Pygrim]

Hi there,

I hope I did not miss anything obvious, but I feel like the documentation for the pockets is rather obtuse and / or the pattern might contain some kind of error.

As I understand it, I am supposed to first construct the opening, and then attach the actual pocket bag to this. So far, so good.

However, in the instructional video the creator uses very wide pocket welt pieces (4) (5 cm wide) and folds them in a asymmetrical way as to avoid visible, harsh lines shining through. The same pieces generated by the pattern maker are just 2 cm wide with a folding line in the middle. Not only is that too short to properly attach them to the fabric, it also leaves little room to then attach the pocket bag later on.

It is also quite unclear to me, where exactly the pocket goes on the back piece. There is a dotted line directly beneath the back dart, which should be the location. But is it the center line? That would imply that the welt covers the tip of the dart, which feels wrong. Or is it the upper end of the welt? That would prevent folding over pieces of the dart, but why that?

The confusion continues with the pocket bag (5) itself. I assume the dotted-dashed line through the middle is the bottom of the pocket at which the fabric is folded and the facing piece (6) is attached at the very bottom (so that both ends of the connected bag curves inwards). Is it correct that the shorter side (between the curved lines) is the upper end of the bag that attaches to the welt? And what exactly do the dashed lines close to this end align with? they are on both pieces (5 and 6) but when sewn together and folded they do not align.

I’m sorry if I sound hopelessly lost, but that is kind of how I feel.

Thanks in advance

[anna_puk]

I can’t say for sure, since it’s been a while since I made a `charlie`, and I skipped the welt pockets, but if your pieces seem too small, is it possible that you did not add a seam allowance? By default, FreeSewing patterns are generated without seam allowance, which you then add yourself before (or while) cutting the fabric pieces.

If you want, you can enable the seam allowance - it will show as a dotted line.

[Pygrim]

I actually have the seam allowances activated. However, this specific piece simply doesn’t have one.

[jonathan_haas]

@Pygrim

The confusion continues with the pocket bag (5) itself. I assume the dotted-dashed line through the middle is the bottom of the pocket

Correct.

@Pygrim

and the facing piece (6) is attached at the very bottom (so that both ends of the connected bag curves inwards)

No, I the facing is placed on top of the “Back pocket bag” piece. It’s optional and just adds the main fabric visually so that the lining isn’t visible through the slit. See Double welt pockets | FreeSewing

@Pygrim

Is it correct that the shorter side (between the curved lines) is the upper end of the bag that attaches to the welt?

No, the rectangular bottom of the (5) piece is joined with the welt.

@Pygrim

And what exactly do the dashed lines close to this end align with? they are on both pieces (5 and 6) but when sewn together and folded they do not align.

The dashed lines near the curvy end align with the welt cut.

[Pygrim]

Thank you very much, this helped quite a lot.

[unagi]

It’s not unusual for welt pockets to go across back pant darts. Think of it this way - darts tend to go close to the larger part of the protruding body part. Welt pockets would look weird if they were actually right across the largest part of your butt :-). Traditionally they’re up a bit, especially if you expect to put anything in them. Much depends on the actual shape of the butt of course.