Modifying Sasha for woven fabrics?

I’ve made Sasha twice now (sans pockets as i hadnt made anything with princess seams before this so i wanted to focus on that), but knit fabric is harder for me to get so both times I made them with woven fabrics. Theyre really cute, but on both of them the bodice is not wide enough. The first time I made the pattern, I just added a zipper, but the second time I regenerated the pattern and made sure to add ease to my chest, shoulder to shoulder, and waist measurements. It still didnt fit. :frowning: Anyone have any other tips to get the fit right? I just double checked that my measurements are correct in the set i have for myself. I know I should’ve made test garments but I got so carried away :sweat_smile:

Oops, found one problem: i forgot to add seam allowance. I didnt realize I generated it without seam allowance both times :expressionless: will update after I make one with seam allowance!

1 Like

Well, I made one with seam allowance and it still doesn’t fit in the chest :upside_down_face: it’s so narrow that it ripped :broken_heart: idk how the one with seam allowance has turned out the tiniest. I think i need to put max ease on shoulder to shoulder maybe

Patterns designed for knits are designed with negative ease; they are smaller than you actually wear since they depend on the stretch of the fabric to allow for movement. They are notoriously difficult to translate into woven fabrics. With paper patterns you typically go up a size, sometimes two, to allow for the needed ease. The easiest way i can think of is to trick the program by putting in false measurements. Measure your mock up, then measure a woven blouse you like and add the extra inches to your measurements. The program allows you to add extra “people” so you don’t have to alter your real measurements. Perhaps some of the gurus have better ideas. Good luck.

1 Like

We did it folks! A woven Sasha that fits me! I cranked up the shoulder to shoulder ease as high as it would go and added a bunch of ease to the chest and bust span. I think I’ll regenerate it with less waist ease though

1 Like

(sasha designer here)

This (patterns for knits using negative ease) is often true but not in this case. By default, sasha has positive ease, since it’s not intended to cling. However, it does fit close to the body along most of the torso, and if you pull it on over your head, that means your chest has to fit through the waist and underbust sections, which will be narrower.

Awesome! I’m so glad you got something that worked.

If you want less waist ease, you may want to add a side zipper. (Opening up the area between armhole and waist will give you more room to maneuver.)