Beginner here and struggling with the armhole/shoulder fitting on a Jett jacket. I’m making it out if scrappy quilted fabric blocks, so have tried to add some ease for the thicker fabric. I figured out the assembly, but the armhole and sleeve were very tight. I picked the bottom of the armhole and added a gusset, which helped there. I also added a strip of fabric at the sleeve seam to loosen it, which also helped. The top of the shoulder still feels very tight. Do I need another sort of gusset-type-thing up there? Were my measurements way off somewhere?
I think the likely explanation is that the pat pieces are cut to the outside of the fabric, so the quilting is making the inside of the garment smaller than you want.
I’d try increasing your measurements manually by at least 2.5cm/1”. It’s often a good idea to make a mock-up of any pattern you make to test for fit the first time you make it.
2 Likes