Hi all! Currently playing with Bent, I couldn’t find on the pattern or the documentation any reference point for the attachment of the 2part sleeves to the body and I am stuck… Am I missing something? Tks for your help.
No idea, maybe try basting the under sleeve centered on the side seam between the front and back body pieces, and see how that looks.
Neither Jaeger nor Carlita have any specific instructions for attaching the sleeve to the body (other than attaching them good sides together).
Tks Jonathan. Looking at 2 jackets I bought sometime ago, bot with 2 sleeve parts, they both differ, and none have the undersleeve centered on the side seam. Troubling. There must be a logic for this sopecific pattern and I will send a message to Joost as the Bent designer to see if he can help with that one.
Pending the clarification from Joost, I choose another solution that seems to work: assembling the sleeves to the body using the high point of the sleeves (as per image attached) , to coincide with the high junction of the body. Seems logic… My jacket is still at prototype stage so no sharing yet ![]()
yes, in general it is there, but it would be nice to get a confirmation from author.
- it’s good to mark that point, a wrongly set sleeve will produce dragging while moving and more creases when hanging (some creases are normal, depends on the angle and fabric)
- if moving shoulder sleeve front / back (that’s an option) mark original top position on the front / back body piece
- it’s a good practice to mark 4 positions, top, bottom and sides. If a sleeve have an ease (two piece sleeve often has, but again this depends on the pattern maker) and than to distribute the ease in between
A way to great looking sleeve is a patience (or a lot of experience) while attaching / sewing. I think I still need to reattach half of my sleeves because I get to confident in my sewing skills ![]()
here is some more reading:
https://www.threadsmagazine.com/project-guides/fit-and-sew-tops/the-sleeve-cap-seam-and-the-armscye
Bent is essentially Brian with a two-part sleeve instead of the regular sleeve.
The (two-part) sleeve is drafted to fit the armhole, as in, the length of the sleevecap will be the length of the armhole + sleevecap ease.
This is not an exact science and there’s some trial and error involved to get the correct shape/size. Likewise, where exactly the sleeve should sit in the armhole is also not an exact science because it depends on the posture of the wearer.
So I’ve been a bit reluctant to put a notch on there because when you do, you sort of signing this is the way, when reality is typically more nuanced.
That being said, Brian does have notches, so I guess I am being inconsistent here.
Bent has a front armhole pitch point that should line up with the front pitch point of the arm opening. So I guess I will add a notch there.
Hold my beer…
Thanks Joost. Would definitely be helpful, noting the issue of the wearer posture.
I just realized those notches are not in the correct place ![]()
I’ll need to look into this a bit closer

