Hi, I’m looking for books to learn patterning for men, in french or english. I have some but the explain numerous méthodes to do differents styles, and I would like something who explain how to draft a bloc close fitting and then who to iterate on the block to do the garnements. I would like also to learn who to make modifications and what to look for on the wearing garment. I have a mathématique mind, so annything not précise is out of way
thanks !
I have an ingeering mind, and I cannot work without precise definitons, so I finally settled with mueler and sohn system.
Problem is, it’s expensive and not everything is in English. The underlaying system is called Rundschau, and it also used by other authors like Robert Rahle
https://movsd.com/BespokeCutter/index.php?topic=508.0
I suggest you to go to Bespoke Cutter And Tailor and start your research there.
https://movsd.com/BespokeCutter/
Check subforums like:
Good Books To Own
Books and other quality reference material
Construction Reference
Patternmaking Reference
thanks for the informations, the robert rahle magazines are in french so it’s good for me, and also thanks for the forum, it seem very good ^^
I managed to do a good muslin with brian so i’m good for today, but since freesewing doesn’t have a block with darts (the closest is simon but it’s not a block ^^') I will need to use draft one myself ^^
What darts are you after? Both Bella and Breanna have bust darts. Most people seem to be able to get at least one of those to work for themselves.
I also have Simple Tailoring & Alterations by J. François-Campbell. It covers different types of seam construction and how to alter garments to better fit different proportions and body shapes. While not pattern drafting, the principles will apply.
I need the shoulder dart on the back, and the side/front/back for the waist
I’m not sure there are many patterns that will have those darts included. That’s likely an alteration you’re going to need to learn to do to tailor it to you.
this topic nejcek linked UNICUT - A Uniform Drafting System for Women's and Men's Clothing have them so I will used it ^^ I download the original magazine since it is partly in french
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That’s great, I hope you get the fit you’re after
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You might be able to buy the ebook version of the 2nd edition of Pattern Cutting for Menswear by Gareth Kershaw for a low price. (On Amazon and Barnes and Noble, it’s listed as $4.99 USD.)
I bought the ebook because the price was low, and I’ve read the book. However, I don’t know how good the book is, compared to others.
oh, it seam a good starting point to develop menswear pattern ! it explain who to take mesurements as who to graduate and who to develop pattern from the sloper, I will keep that under the hood ^^
I would recommend this:
Better than any book that does a bunch of patterns and does not explain why things are the way they are.
That being said, the recommendation by Benjamin (Gareth Kershaw) is a good one if you just want instructions for a menswear block/patterns.
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very good thanks, exactly what I need ^^
I will come back in a year (or a month depending how I’m prone to read english) to take my cents about that ^^
@petit_lutin
I think you joined the Bespoke Cutter And Tailor forum, but I would like to point you to this post there, maybe you haven’t seen it:
https://movsd.com/BespokeCutter/index.php/topic,587.0.html
it talks about a French studio with it’s own system:
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oh thank you for the link, I haven’t seen it ^^
I will keep it in mind but since it’s aiming for womenswear not for now ^^
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