I’m not sure if this is just the lack of sleep speaking but I’m just a bit confused about the collar and collar stand on the Jaeger pattern. The collar is essentially a thick arc where the inside or “short side” should probably go against the neck so that the longer outside “flares” around the shoulders. However, when the pattern is drafted, the collar stand seems to be placed on the outside (at least looking at the shape of the undercollar and also a picture in the sewing instructions). This somehow makes no sense to me. The neckline seems to also be sized to fit the outside of the collar and not the inside.
I would think the pattern is faulty if not for the fact that people have seemingly used it to make a jacket without issue. So am I just having my own dumb dog hours or could there be an actual problem?
The geometry of a notch lapel collar is different to that of a shirt collar (which also has a stand) or a simple jacket collar (without stand), because the lapels open to almost one third of the collar opening. The stand is part of the collar geometry.
Patterns are often hard to understand as they are a mixture of design decisions (how it will look) and construction decisions (how we can sew everything together and what support the fabric needs).
Such a collar also lies flat on the chest and slopes slightly upwards at the shoulder line.
Here I found a nice blog post showing sewing few different types of collars. You can see how matching curves create flat collar and opposing curves create standing collar.
I’m familiar with a notched collar. Indeed, I own several jackets with them. However, from studying them, as well as the image you posted above as well as other patterns, I would expect the shape of the collar to be something like the following (figure on the top):
Since we’re not trying to have the collar stand straight up, the outside is longer in order to go around the shoulders.
Below in the picture is what the Jaeger pattern gave me. I’m showing the undercollar shape here, as it also includes the stand shape. But which is the inside and which is the outside? Trying to rotate the part in my mind, I’m still apprehensive. I suppose I’ll make a mockup and see how it actually stands and fits around my neck.
Than you for the link, though. It was an interesting read
